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Los Naranjos, Lago de Yojoa, Honduras

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Pulhapanzak FallsMe on a bridge near Lago de Yojoa

Eric and I have been spending the last two days in a one-street town called Los Naranjos, near Honduras’s largest lake, Lago de Yojoa. There is a little microbrewery and guest house here called D & D that was suggested to us by nearly everybody. It’s run by an ex-patriot named Bob who is originally from Oregon.

We arrived in Los Naranjos yesterday afternoon and discovered that all of the rooms at D & D were already occupied. We were hot, dusty, and drenched in sweat after, not only having taken several chicken buses, but also having to hike a good kilometer with our overstuffed backpacks on. Sensing we were in a pinch, they ended up offering to rent us a single fold out bed and a sofa located in the entrance to the other rooms. We felt pretty defeated but accepted the accommodation for a price of $2.50 each. I offered to take the couch.

We spent the rest of yesterday hiking and getting lost in an archaeological park located next to Lago de Yojoa. We must have walked six miles. Last night we relaxed at D & D and talked to an interesting German man named Randolf. He looked like a young Friedrich Nietzche, with an overgrown mustache that collected crumbs of food and beer suds. At 48-years-old, he was an ex-carpenter from the south of Germany who was looking to start a butterfly and snake farm somewhere in Central America. Neither his English nor his Spanish were very good but he had a great sense of humor and was always eager to try and communicate.

Bob, the owner of D & D, is another interesting person we became acquainted with. He has lived here in Honduras for almost 25 years. In addition to renting rooms, he also brews his own beers, and even makes his own natural sodas from the plants that grow wild in these parts. He’s a classic American-type who speaks his mind without apology. He is often heard barking Spanish at the girls who work for him, or threatening to make slippers out of Jack, his antisocial cat. Bob’s a good guy though, and seems to know just about everything about the flora and fauna in the area. He’s also known for being the man in Honduras that can get you just about anything.

Today we ate a great breakfast of blueberry pancakes, eggs, bacon, and even American-style hash-browns. We then spent the day at a nearby waterfall named Pulhapanzak Falls. We hiked for awhile in the dusty, relentless heat before taking a very rejuvenating swim in the river. After sleeping on a couch last night, and not getting a shower in the morning, it felt terrific to strip down and jump in.

Eric and I are feeling all the extremes that come with traveling. Sometimes the smallest things can have the greatest impact: Things like using the bathroom after a long bus ride, or having a great meal after not eating all day, or enjoying a cleansing swim after spending the night on a dingy old couch. Tomorrow we are off to Comayagua. After that I think we’re heading to Nicaragua.

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